PENS AND NEEDLES
THE BLOG OF AN AUTHOR/QUILTER
|
|
This post contains affiliate links. For more information, click here.
Up until a few weeks ago, I'd never quilted with minky/cuddle cloth. I didn't think they made backing wide enough for it to interest me, and I refuse to piece my backing. So when I started making a quilt for a friend who'd recently had a baby, I was really happy to find 90" wide cuddle/minky backing on Fat Quarter Shop. (read more)
HOW TO BASTE A QUILT WITH MINKY BACKING
|
|
|
BASTING A QUILT WITH MINKY BACKING
GETTING STARTED
The most important thing (in my opinion) when basting a quilt is making sure you use a method that doesn't give the quilt room to move.
The last thing you want is shifting under your hopper foot. Shifting leads to puckers, folds, and all sorts of things you don't want happening.
I've tried a few methods for basting, including tacking and pinning, but I didn't like either. They were a lot of work, a lot of mess, and there was still a lot of shifting, so I had to find another way.
That's how I landed on glue basting.
If you've seen my other videos you know that my typical method is to simply squeeze the glue bottle out into thin lines on the quilt, straighten the top or backing over the glue, then iron.
It works well, but I was concerned that even the 3" gaps between the glue lines would be too big for minky backing. I have heard that minky likes to shift, and after working with it, I can confirm that it does. I needed a way to keep it still even while I was pushing it around my quilting table.
I am going to share my previous method of glue basting, but I don't think I'll be using that method any longer, not after I started doing it this way.
WHAT DOES A NEW QUILTER REALLY NEED?
The last thing you want is shifting under your hopper foot. Shifting leads to puckers, folds, and all sorts of things you don't want happening.
I've tried a few methods for basting, including tacking and pinning, but I didn't like either. They were a lot of work, a lot of mess, and there was still a lot of shifting, so I had to find another way.
That's how I landed on glue basting.
If you've seen my other videos you know that my typical method is to simply squeeze the glue bottle out into thin lines on the quilt, straighten the top or backing over the glue, then iron.
It works well, but I was concerned that even the 3" gaps between the glue lines would be too big for minky backing. I have heard that minky likes to shift, and after working with it, I can confirm that it does. I needed a way to keep it still even while I was pushing it around my quilting table.
I am going to share my previous method of glue basting, but I don't think I'll be using that method any longer, not after I started doing it this way.
WHAT DOES A NEW QUILTER REALLY NEED?
|
|
THIS IS HOW I TYPICALLY GLUE BASTE A QUILT
|
|
HOW TO GLUE BASTE WITH MINKY BACKING
USING A PAINT ROLLER
It occurred to me that using a paint roller might save me some time, and, if I paired it with a retractable paint stick, it might also save my back some effort.
I didn't grab the paint stick for this first attempt, just because I wanted to make sure I liked it, but now that I've basted this way I have already picked up retractable pole so I'll have it on hand for my next quilt.
I didn't grab the paint stick for this first attempt, just because I wanted to make sure I liked it, but now that I've basted this way I have already picked up retractable pole so I'll have it on hand for my next quilt.
I'm also going to recommend purchasing a paint tray. It doesn't need to be large, but I do think basting this way will be helped if you can "wring" out the roller on the ramp of the tray, just like you would when you paint a wall.
I'd suggest something heavier so that you can roll the paint roller on the retractable pole without having to bend down and hold the tray steady. Even being able to keep it in place with your foot will save you the back pain that comes with bending over and standing up while you baste.
I'd suggest something heavier so that you can roll the paint roller on the retractable pole without having to bend down and hold the tray steady. Even being able to keep it in place with your foot will save you the back pain that comes with bending over and standing up while you baste.
You're also going to need a foam roller. I would suggest a small one, 4 - 6 inches long, just because you can more easily maneuver the roller along the quilt batting. If you had a full sized roller it might become a big hassle if it decides to stick to the batting material.
I used a kid's set of foam rollers, but I'm not sure how readily available those will be, and I really only wanted one of the set, so I'm going to go ahead and purchase a foam roller before I do my next quilt.
Something like this would work well, and you'll have extras for later.
I used a kid's set of foam rollers, but I'm not sure how readily available those will be, and I really only wanted one of the set, so I'm going to go ahead and purchase a foam roller before I do my next quilt.
Something like this would work well, and you'll have extras for later.
|
|
BASTING A QUILT WITH MINKY CLOTH
PAINTING ON THE GLUE
In actuality, painting the glue on to the quilt is much the same as painting a wall. I'll go through it step by step, but the most important thing to note is that you do need to "wring" out the roller, the same way you would if you were painting.
You do not need a thick layer of glue on the quilt. Wring the roller out well, then apply the glue in even strokes with a light pressure. If you find that you're getting more glue at the start, simply dab the roller at points along your batting and then go back and roll it out.
Here's how I like to do it:
1. Lay out the minky, right side down
2. Lay the batting on top of the minky
3. Lay the quilt top on top of the batting, wrong side down
*you now have a quilt sandwich*
4. Pull the quilt top and batting away from the minky, pulling both together down the quilt about 8"
5. Apply your glue to the batting that you just pulled down, then roll the batting back up on top of the minky and press down on the batting to help it adhere
6. Once that's done and the minky is fixed to the batting, do the same with the quilt top.
7. Pull the quilt top away from the batting and down about 8"
8. Roll the glue onto the batting, then pull the quilt top back up and press it firmly so it adheres to the batting
9. At this point, both the top section of the minky and the top section of the quilt top should be glue to the batting
10. Fold the batting and the quilt top over and over toward the top edge of the quilt
11. Apply the glue to the batting, fold down, press, repeat until all of the batting is glue to the minky
12. Roll the quilt top up toward the top edge of the quilt, exposing the batting
13. Apply the glue to the batting, pull the quilt top down, repeat until the quilt top is adhered to the batting
At this point your quilt should be entirely basted. You can already tell that it's sticking quite well. If you like, now is the time to grab your iron, put it on high heat and iron the QUILT top.
The minky is facing the floor, the iron should NEVER come into contact with the minky.
When this is done you can trim the excess from the quilt and fold it up. It's now ready to be quilted whenever you have a free moment.
WE'RE REVAMPING OUR KID'S ALLOWANCE WITH THE GREENLIGHT DEBIT CARD FOR KIDS
You do not need a thick layer of glue on the quilt. Wring the roller out well, then apply the glue in even strokes with a light pressure. If you find that you're getting more glue at the start, simply dab the roller at points along your batting and then go back and roll it out.
Here's how I like to do it:
1. Lay out the minky, right side down
2. Lay the batting on top of the minky
3. Lay the quilt top on top of the batting, wrong side down
*you now have a quilt sandwich*
4. Pull the quilt top and batting away from the minky, pulling both together down the quilt about 8"
5. Apply your glue to the batting that you just pulled down, then roll the batting back up on top of the minky and press down on the batting to help it adhere
6. Once that's done and the minky is fixed to the batting, do the same with the quilt top.
7. Pull the quilt top away from the batting and down about 8"
8. Roll the glue onto the batting, then pull the quilt top back up and press it firmly so it adheres to the batting
9. At this point, both the top section of the minky and the top section of the quilt top should be glue to the batting
10. Fold the batting and the quilt top over and over toward the top edge of the quilt
11. Apply the glue to the batting, fold down, press, repeat until all of the batting is glue to the minky
12. Roll the quilt top up toward the top edge of the quilt, exposing the batting
13. Apply the glue to the batting, pull the quilt top down, repeat until the quilt top is adhered to the batting
At this point your quilt should be entirely basted. You can already tell that it's sticking quite well. If you like, now is the time to grab your iron, put it on high heat and iron the QUILT top.
The minky is facing the floor, the iron should NEVER come into contact with the minky.
When this is done you can trim the excess from the quilt and fold it up. It's now ready to be quilted whenever you have a free moment.
WE'RE REVAMPING OUR KID'S ALLOWANCE WITH THE GREENLIGHT DEBIT CARD FOR KIDS
|
|
QUILTING WITH MINKY ON YOUR DOMESTIC MACHINE
I found the minky to be heavier than the normal cotton backing I have always used. It didn't seem to slide as well, and, had I not been using white minky, I would have preferred to quilt it with the quilt top facing down.
Since I was using white minky and white thread, I couldn't see the thread on the minky, so I had to quilt it with the top facing up.
This is probably a better idea anyway, since you want to be able to see what your quilt pattern is going to look like on the the quilt top.
So, in order to get the minky to slide better, I am going to recommend having a good sewing extension table. I like my Sew Steady. It gives me a lot more room to move.
If you're really looking to splurge you can get an Aussie Cabinet. It has a table that insets for flat quilting, but raises for easy piecing as well.
An insert for your Aussie cabinet is a great addition, if you already have this table or an Aussie that takes inserts. The more flush everything is, the better it's going to be.
I'm just going to assume that not everyone has $1400 to drop on a sewing cabinet, but hey, it's good to dream.
If you already have a large table that you quilt on, I'm going to suggest getting a can of silicone spray and spraying a bit on to the table where your quilt will slide. If that's just your sewing machine area, that's fine.
Don't spray the silicone directly onto the slide surface. Spray it on a paper towel and then wipe on the surface you need to be more slick.
Also, machingers are your best friend. :) They really help you keep a grip on the quilt without having to grab and pinch the material, and without having to strain your shoulder muscles.
You can get a bundle on Amazon that has the silicone spray and machingers bundled together.
Here are a few tips for quilting on your domestic machine.
THESE ARE MY VERY FAVORITE PRIDE AND PREJUDICE FAN FICTION NOVELS
Since I was using white minky and white thread, I couldn't see the thread on the minky, so I had to quilt it with the top facing up.
This is probably a better idea anyway, since you want to be able to see what your quilt pattern is going to look like on the the quilt top.
So, in order to get the minky to slide better, I am going to recommend having a good sewing extension table. I like my Sew Steady. It gives me a lot more room to move.
If you're really looking to splurge you can get an Aussie Cabinet. It has a table that insets for flat quilting, but raises for easy piecing as well.
An insert for your Aussie cabinet is a great addition, if you already have this table or an Aussie that takes inserts. The more flush everything is, the better it's going to be.
I'm just going to assume that not everyone has $1400 to drop on a sewing cabinet, but hey, it's good to dream.
If you already have a large table that you quilt on, I'm going to suggest getting a can of silicone spray and spraying a bit on to the table where your quilt will slide. If that's just your sewing machine area, that's fine.
Don't spray the silicone directly onto the slide surface. Spray it on a paper towel and then wipe on the surface you need to be more slick.
Also, machingers are your best friend. :) They really help you keep a grip on the quilt without having to grab and pinch the material, and without having to strain your shoulder muscles.
You can get a bundle on Amazon that has the silicone spray and machingers bundled together.
Here are a few tips for quilting on your domestic machine.
THESE ARE MY VERY FAVORITE PRIDE AND PREJUDICE FAN FICTION NOVELS
|
|
QUILTING ON A DOMESTIC SEWING MACHINE
Here are some basic instructions, though I now quilt on my Bernina 570.
Here I am actually quilting on my domestic machine. I use a meander pattern that I learned in Angela Walters book, it's very easy. It's also included with Amazon Kindle Unlimited.
|
|
FINAL THOUGHTS
I will definitely quilt with minky again. The next two quilts I have planned will both be backed with minky. It's cuddly and soft, and really very easy to work with if your quilt isn't larger than 90", which is the maximum width I've been able to find on Fat Quarter Shop.
Keep it away from irons and high heat. When you wash and dry your quilt before using it or giving it away just be sure to wash with warm or cold water, then dry it on low/gentle/delicate (whatever your dryer refers to for a low heat setting).
I'm actually going to be making a Thunderbird quilt for my husband in the next few months, and now that he's seen and felt the minky cloth first hand, he's asked me to back his quilt with that cloth. Since he'll be using it at his duck lease in the cooler months, it'll be nice to snuggle up with.
I hope this post has helped you out, but if you have any questions, please let me know. I'm always happy to help further, if I am able.
Enjoy your minky!
Ty
Keep it away from irons and high heat. When you wash and dry your quilt before using it or giving it away just be sure to wash with warm or cold water, then dry it on low/gentle/delicate (whatever your dryer refers to for a low heat setting).
I'm actually going to be making a Thunderbird quilt for my husband in the next few months, and now that he's seen and felt the minky cloth first hand, he's asked me to back his quilt with that cloth. Since he'll be using it at his duck lease in the cooler months, it'll be nice to snuggle up with.
I hope this post has helped you out, but if you have any questions, please let me know. I'm always happy to help further, if I am able.
Enjoy your minky!
Ty
0 Comments
Leave a Reply.
LOVE OBSCURE AMAZON DEALS? JOIN OUR FACEBOOK GROUP
LIKE TY ON FACEBOOK
SUBSCRIBE ON YOUTUBE
About The Author
I started quilting in June of 2018 after attending a quilt show in support of my
best friend.
I thought the women (and teenagers) who quilted must be completely insane to
spend so much time on
such detailed work.
But...what beautiful
work it was.
I asked my friend to teach me how to quilt, and that was
the beginning of a hobby I have grown to love.
Happy Quilting!
ON YOUTUBE
TY WRITES KIDS BOOKS
